The labels on our clothes don’t tell us the full story of their origins. My jumper, made in Bangladesh, could very likely have taken a whistle stop tour around the world once, or even twice, during its manufacture and delivery to my doorstep. These labels also leave out the environmental cost of the way the fashion industry is currently operating.
The term fast fashion refers to low priced clothing, mass produced at high speed in order to keep pace with ever-changing trends. The supply chain is organised to allow new styles to be designed, manufactured and available to purchase within a matter of weeks. Whilst this business model increases the accessibility and reduces the cost of fashionable clothes for the consumer, it comes at a high price for our planet.
The environmental price tag of fast fashion
The necessary steps of this shortened cycle: acquiring the raw materials, preparing and treating them for manufacture, assembling, packaging and delivering the product, are all highly energy intensive. In many cases, each of these steps takes place in different countries, or even continents.
Mirroring the short manufacturing cycle is the equally short lifespan items typically have in our wardrobes. Trend specific garments, often poor quality, are frequently discarded after just a handful of wears, if worn at all. Of the total fibre input used in the manufacture of clothing, 87% ends up in landfill or incinerated. As these textiles are burned, greenhouse gasses such as carbon dioxide and methane, as well as toxins from dyes and chemicals, are released. Overall, the fashion industry is responsible for approximately 10% of global carbon emissions, 20% of global waste water and 35% of primary microplastic released into the environment.
Natural fibres have natural consequences
The negative environmental impact doesn’t end there. Non-renewable fossil fuels form the basis of the raw material used. Every year, 342 million barrels of oil are extracted to produce plastic based textile fibres. And unfortunately, natural fibres are not the environmentally friendly solution you might expect, largely due to the sheer volume of demand. As much as 6% of the world’s pesticides and 16% of insecticides are used to maintain production of the vast quantity of cotton required by the textile industry. More of these water and soil polluting chemicals are used in cotton farming than for any other single crop. Cotton crops also rely heavily on irrigation; for example did you know it takes 2,700 litres of water to make one cotton T-shirt?
Cotton is not the only problematic material. Leather, another popular option, has an immense carbon footprint. It is a by-product of animal agriculture, an industry responsible for 20% of greenhouse gas emissions. Further, animal agriculture is the number one cause of deforestation, mowing down vast areas of forest which act as a carbon sink, absorbing CO2. As such, leather production is directly contributing to the destruction of one of Earth’s most important defences against climate change.
Green is the new black
It is clear that, if we are to salvage what is left of our planet’s healthy ecosystems and keep global warming below the IPCC’s essential target of 1.5°C above pre-industrial levels, the fashion industry must enact changes, and fast. Thankfully, there are a number of signs that suggest the tide is changing against these harmful practices. Throughout September’s fashion month, sustainability has been among the top trends seen on, and off, the catwalk. In Milan, Prada has set a goal of using 90% sustainable fabrics in their designs. In Paris, the French Fashion governing body announced the development of two new tools to measure the environmental impact of collections. And at New York Fashion Week, a panel about the industry’s future was headed by Vogue’s Editor in Chief and certified fashion royalty, Dame Anna Wintour. She brought sustainability to the forefront of the conversation by discussing vintage clothing and urging designers to make “clothes that can last a lifetime” to help “customers understand that clothes are not disposable”. This message, coming from a woman who has made an entire career from reporting on the newest fashion trends, brings hope that green really is the new black.
High-street brands have also been following suit (excuse the pun), with many unveiling ‘conscious’ collections, promising clothes with reduced environmental baggage. Whilst some claims should be treated with scepticism – one study found that 60% of sustainability statements from high-street brands were misleading and unsubstantiated – there are some exciting alternatives to fast fashion to get behind.
PANGAIA, a material science brand, is on a self-proclaimed “mission to save the planet”. Their innovative solutions include grape leather made with waste from the winemaking industry and biodegradable hoodies made of nettles, bamboo and seaweed. Batoko, based on the North West coast of England, collect plastic waste before it reaches landfill and recycle it into high quality swim wear. AYM use bamboo fabric to make timeless, versatile pieces, some of which can be worn in multiple ways, providing three styles in one top. They also organise their manufacturing process to reduce waste. Items are made to order, or available to pre-order, ensuring that everything made is bought. These brands, and many others, are also partnering with a rewilding organisation that are planting trees to offset the carbon emissions from shipping.
As a consumer, it can be difficult to distinguish the green from the green washers. However, you will be pleased to hear there is already an app to help you do so! Good On You does the research and rates brands on their effect on the environment, animals, and people. It also recommends ethical, environmentally-friendly places to shop for whatever your wardrobe is missing, from shoes to pyjamas.
Sustainable fashion for everyone
Using our purchasing power to support sustainable brands and reject fast fashion can have huge impact on how the fashion industry operates in the future. However, having become accustomed to buying a new dress for a tenner, it seems difficult to justify a £90, made-to-order, bamboo number for this weekend’s party. It’s true that this kind of eco-consumerism is a privilege for those with enough time and money. Yet it is equally important to realise that the fast fashion giants are not surviving off people who cannot afford to shop elsewhere; they are thriving in a system of habitual overconsumption. Other alternatives to supporting these brands include clothes swaps with friends, shopping second hand in charity and vintage shops and using reselling platforms such as Depop and Vinted. With just a little thought and effort, becoming a sustainable fashionista can easily be achieved on a budget.
So, for the sake of our planet, on Wednesdays (and every other day) let’s wear green.
If you enjoyed this blog and want to learn more, connect with @TillyatNotch and follow @NotchCom on Twitter for more content.
The last 18 months has provided us with a huge series of challenges, but as with everything, when you look hard enough you can always find a silver lining. For me, one of the greatest things to happen last year was that the nation’s sweetheart (and a personal hero of mine), Sir David Attenborough, joined Instagram. However, in true 2020 fashion, he left again after just two months – but it was good while it lasted!
So, why did he do it? Despite not being active on any other social media accounts, in his first post on the platform, Attenborough explained, “we’re running this account because we believe that we can create change and save our planet”. With around 27 million Instagram users in the UK alone, he definitely found the right podium to reach the masses. Breaking the world record at the time, he became the fastest user to reach one million followers in just 4 hours 44 minutes. Although this record has since been broken again, it clearly demonstrated that there was an audience on the platform that were excited for another way to keep up-to-date with his rallying calls for climate justice.
Alongside finding another platform to spread his message, it is also possible that this foray into social media was used as a marketing tactic. On the 28th of September 2020, his series ‘David Attenborough: A Life on Our Planet’ was released in cinemas and available to stream from the 4th of October on Netflix. Unfortunately, the account has been inactive since the 31st of October – although the content is still accessible for users to rewatch. He’s since explained in interviews that he was persuaded to do a message on conservation, but he found it too hard to keep up with this new form of media. It’s likely that he really did prefer connecting with his viewers via post; however, it is also probable that his team saw the power of social media to stir up a marketing buzz around the new documentary release.
Social media in marketing
Globally, there are around 1 billion Instagram users, and over 70% of that demographic is aged 34 and under. With 63% of its users logging in at least once a day and spending an average of 53 minutes online, Instagram and other popular social media platforms present a powerful and free marketing opportunity for everyone, from small businesses to established brands.
There’s no cost associated with setting up an Instagram account, so once you’ve managed to capture your target audience, it’s easy to ‘influence’ those followers. In terms of more traditional marketing of products by brands, around 90% of people with an Instagram account follow at least one brand. Another survey also found that 89% of users said that a brands presence on Instagram was most influential compared to other social media platforms. But why does it have so much influencing power?
Visually appealing
As with every social media channel, it’s important to have a unique function and Instagram found its niche in the market as an image sharing platform. Since its acquisition by Facebook in 2012, the application has evolved to allow its users to post a variety of different types of content ranging from carousels (multiple images in a single post) to videos and the ability to broadcast live videos with up to three other users.
The power of visuals to aid engagement with content and to enhance the retention of new information has been well documented in research. One study found that even after three days, humans can recall over 2,000 images in a recognition test with around 90% accuracy. This is believed to be due to the pathways in our brains that process words and pictures differently when committing them to memory. It also explains why you haven’t been able to stop thinking about that cute puppy video you watched five times yesterday!
Young voices
With high levels of engagement and a generally younger demographic, it’s no wonder that Instagram’s visually appealing way of consuming information is rising as a popular way to target younger audiences – and when it comes to issues related to climate change, this is key.
In the last couple of years, we’ve seen a greater call to action on climate change from younger generations. Sparked by then5-year-old Swedish activist, Greta Thunberg – who gained popularity in 2018 for protesting for climate action outside Swedish parliament in the lead up to their election – we saw the emergence of the Youth Climate Strike and Fridays for Future. These organised events allowed students across the globe to take to the streets and demand their local governments take action to bring climate justice and equality to all.
But it’s not just the younger teens advocating for their futures. In a report published by Climate Outreach in 2014, surveys suggested that 70% of students (aged 18-25) were either fairly or very concerned about climate change. With the heavy media coverage of the school strikes, it’s likely this figure has since risen over the last few years, and more young people are actively engaging with resources that spread messages of environmental justice and hope for a more sustainable future.
Echo chamber
Over the last decade, and as social media usage has risen to new heights, it has begun to highlight the echo chambers it has created on polarising topics such as climate change. Echo chambers refer to situations where views and beliefs on certain topics become amplified by their repetition and reinforcement among small groups of the population.
The concern is that they can obstruct the flow of information, often in fairly dangerous ways as seen through the rise of fake news. However, there is an argument that they can create safe spaces online, for communities to share ideas and stories.
This has been especially powerful in bringing young people together in the fight against climate change. These climate echo chambers have given rise to a number of Instagram accounts dedicated to creating informative and educational resources on environmental topics. Some examples include @Atmos, @futureearth and @earthrise.studio.
These same online echo chambers are likely the ones that Attenborough was targeting with his call-to-action videos. However, due to his wider reach, it’s not inconceivable that he may have had the power to introduce long-term fans of his work to a side of the climate debate they may not have otherwise stumbled into on their own. Healing the planet and bringing people together, is there anything he can’t do?
Social media killed the radio star
With a high number of active users aged 18-34, most of whom are likely to already be advocating for similar messages on climate change, it’s easy to see why Attenborough chose Instagram as the social platform to spread his message and promote his upcoming documentary series. Without exact data, it’s hard to conclusively say that Attenborough’s brief Instagram presence had a positive impact on how his latest series was received. Nevertheless, as with most of his documentaries, A Life on Our Planet received a 9/10 rating on IMDb and 95% score on Rotten Tomatoes, helping to demonstrate how his work continues to inspire people of all ages.
As for Instagram, it’s visually appealing nature and popularity among younger audiences serves as the perfect recipe for content creators and influencers to spread informative resources on climate and environmental topics.
Whether it was a marketing ploy or just another way to broadcast a message on conservation, as always, Sir David captured the hearts and minds of young climate activists everywhere, and for that our planet is eternally grateful.
As many of us are without our usual escape to the office, it has become more important than ever to create a peaceful, happy space at home. For me this has meant a new-found dedication to feng shui. A common aesthetic goal for many aspiring decorators (myself included) is to bring the outdoors, indoors. No garden? No problem! Long gone are the days when plants were simply the domain of avid gardeners or botany enthusiasts. As I watch aloe vera creep onto every bookcase and spider plants dominating every windowsill, it is clear that houseplants are increasingly becoming part of the furniture. In recent years the market for houseplants has boomed, with independent shops emerging around every corner to satisfy our foliage fantasies. In this instalment, we continue our exploration of plants, and decide whether the obsession is simply the latest design trend or if there is a scientific explanation behind the greenery (spoiler: there is!).
Nature or nurture?
We all recognise that feeling when we nurture and care for our plants, to then be rewarded with a sprouting leaf or blooming flower – pure joy. Amazingly, this innate emotional connection with plants has a name: biophilia. From an evolutionary perspective, throughout human history it has been vital to understand nature and adopt certain behavioural responses in order to survive and thrive in the natural world. The biophilia hypothesis suggests that humans’ instinctive association with the natural environment persists through a combination of genetic inheritance and cultural learning. With every visit to a nature reserve; every desire to embark on a fresh country walk; every stroke of a paintbrush on a landscape painting, biophilia could be at play. Nature is not only our entertainment, but our release and our muse. Our love of houseplants is no exception.
Psychological benefits
The impact of nature on mental health is a heavily researched area, with studies uncovering a significant link between nature exposure and mental health effects. These include a reduction in depression, anxiety and stress. The relationship has proven to be more prevalent amongst those in urban areas where nature exposure is rarer, leaving less capability for habituation. The basis for this nature exposure includes direct interaction, as well as simply viewing it and appreciating it from an aesthetic perspective.
Office environments are, unsurprisingly, associated with high levels of stress and have therefore been the focus of many studies – with the primary aim being to discover what can stimulate greater productivity whilst reducing stress in the office. A study found that when plants were introduced into the workplace, employee performance increased. This is because when we work in an environment where we are able to be psychologically engaged (via the plant), we are happier and consequently work better. Although many of the current studies focus on the benefits of plants in an office, with our homes becoming our primary workplace, the results hold true for houseplants in the home.
Health benefits
What is often overlooked when discussing the benefits of indoor plants is the phytoremediation capacity of plants and the related health benefits. Air pollution is often associated with the busy roads of bustling cities, yet recent studies have found that indoor air pollution from the emissions of our daily household items can be very damaging. With every pop of the toaster or lighting of the stove, volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are released, which are gaseous chemicals that can be harmful when inhaled. The concern only heightens as we enter winter and ventilation decreases as we shut our doors to keep out the biting cold. Could houseplants help us clean our indoor air quality?
Research seems to suggest this could be the case. When studying the effect of potted plants on total VOC levels within an office environment it was found that when the total VOC level reached a certain threshold, large reductions were found in offices that contained plants. We can assume the threshold initiates a VOC-removal response in plants, demonstrating their importance as efficient and sustainable bioremediation systems to improve indoor air quality.
Finally we have proof that investing in houseplants is not about simply adorning your living space with the latest accessories. In fact, they provide several mental and physical benefits. So, whether you want to start with a low maintenance yucca or a more demanding calathea, maybe it’s time to take the leaf of faith (sorry) and brighten up your shelves and windowsills with a bit of greenery – added bonus, it also makes you super trendy!
If you’ve got the green thumb and want more houseplant content, get in touch with @RachaelAtNotch and follow @NotchCom
